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Zoe Stephens, a travel guide from the UK, has visited North Korea over 30 times and shares insights into the daily life of people in the country.
Zoe Stephens said independent travel in North Korea is forbidden. (Source: Instagram)
In a world teeming with travel recommendations and picturesque destinations, North Korea consistently remains cloaked in mystery and cautionary tales. While internet forums and global media often place the nation on a list of places to avoid, a British woman with firsthand experience is challenging that narrative.
Zoe Stephens, a travel guide from the UK, has visited North Korea more than 30 times and continues to lead carefully planned tours into what is often labelled the world’s most secretive state. Her insights provide a rare glimpse into daily life behind the heavily guarded borders of a country that is rarely seen through the eyes of an outsider.
Though North Korea is infamous for its authoritarian regime, strict censorship, and international isolation, Zoe’s accounts portray a country that, while highly controlled, is not entirely as the world imagines. “It’s a place of striking natural beauty, immense discipline, and yes, many rules – but it’s also a country where normal life carries on,” she said in an Instagram post via her account North Korea Unreported.
See the viral post:
Zoe emphasises that travelling to North Korea requires strict adherence to protocol. Independent travel is forbidden; every foreign visitor must be accompanied by at least two government-appointed guides. Joking, casual conversations, or spontaneous photography are not just discouraged but can result in serious consequences.
Tourists are barred from photographing military installations, construction sites, and even certain statues or images of leader Kim Jong Un. Artfully angled selfies or creative video content are also off-limits.
Despite the oppressive rules and the nation’s global reputation, Zoe insists that tourists who follow the guidelines have little to fear. “If you play by the rules, it’s not unsafe,” she said, adding, “People assume North Koreans are starving, miserable, and desperate to escape, but that’s not what I’ve seen. They live ordinary lives. They go to work, take care of their families, and show a quiet pride in their country.”
Some accused Zoe of promoting propaganda, arguing that what foreign visitors see is a tightly choreographed version of reality. Zoe doesn’t deny that her access is controlled. Still, she believes that engagement, even limited, is better than isolation. “It’s true that I can’t speak freely with my family while I’m there. And I know I’m not seeing the full picture,” she admits. “But that doesn’t mean what I do see isn’t real,” she added.
Among the cultural curiousities she shares is the bemusement North Koreans express when foreign tourists refuse to use buses or insist on walking. “To them, it’s confusing – why walk when the bus is there?” she says, highlighting the everyday gaps in understanding between cultures.
